Street Style Summer Flare Jeans

Flare and bell bottom jeans are close relatives, not twins. Both fit snugly through the thigh and open up below the knee. Bell bottoms start the widening lower and end much wider, while flares open more gradually and look easier to wear every day.

For summer, pick a lighter-weight denim with a little stretch, a rise that sits at or just under your natural waist, and a hem that skims the top of your shoe. The rest of this post covers the difference between the two shapes, how to choose a fit, and what to wear with them.

Section 01

Bell bottom vs flare jeans: what is the difference?

If you are wondering whether bell bottoms and flare jeans are the same, the short answer is that the names overlap and shops use them loosely. In practice, a flare is a moderate opening, and a bell bottom is the dramatic version, with a visible swing from the knee down.

The shape has a practical origin. According to the Fashion Institute of Technology's denim exhibition, the U.S. Navy introduced flared pants in 1905 and sailors' pants were flared so they were easier to roll up when swabbing the deck. The same exhibition notes that many hippies bought their first flares from Army/Navy surplus stores, which is how the style moved toward the bell bottom jeans of the 70s.

Flares came back later. The FIT fashion history timeline records low-rise flared jeans as prevalent in the early 2000s, with bootcut growing more popular by the middle of the decade. That is why a flare can look either retro or current depending on rise and wash.

Section 02

Which rise works best?

High waisted flare jeans are the easiest place to start. A rise that sits at your natural waist lengthens the leg line, and the wide hem then reads as part of one long vertical shape. Look for a waistband that stays flat when you sit, since a gap at the back is the most common fit complaint.

Mid-rise is the comfortable choice if a tall waistband feels restrictive. Low-rise flares are the early-2000s version and tend to work best with a longer top that skims the hip.

What about stretch?

For summer, look for cotton with a small amount of elastane. It breathes and recovers after sitting, so the knee does not bag. Rigid denim gives a sharper line but feels warm in heat.

Section 03

What body type do flare jeans look best on?

Most body types can wear them, because the flare balances the hip and thigh with volume at the hem. What changes is the rise, length and hem width.

• If you have a defined waist, a high rise that sits at the narrowest point shows it.
• If you are petite, choose a modest flare, hemmed to just skim the ground in the shoes you will wear. A very wide hem can swallow a short leg.
• If you carry weight at the hip, a mid or dark wash and a flare that starts at the knee keep the line smooth.
• If you are broad through the shoulder, the extra volume at the hem balances the upper half.

Hem length matters more than almost anything. Have flares hemmed with the shoes you will wear most, because a hem that drags in the wrong shoe looks messy and wears out quickly.

Section 04

How does wash change the look?

Through the lens of evidence-based design, I'd think about wash as a question of contrast. Dark indigo reads as a single, continuous line, which suits a dressier outfit. Light washes look softer and more casual, and they photograph brighter in summer sun.

White and ecru denim are lovely in warm weather, but they show every shadow, so choose a thicker weave if you want an opaque result. Faded and distressed washes pair best with simple tops, since the denim already carries the texture.

Section 05

What to wear with flare and bell bottom jeans

Balance volume. The leg is wide at the bottom, so keep the top fitted, cropped or tucked. A fitted tee, a white button-down or a cropped blazer all work.

Shoes matter. A platform sandal, wedge or boot lifts the hem so the flare swings cleanly. Flat sandals work if the jeans are hemmed for them. For a closer look at warm-weather layers, see the summer street style dressing guide and the notes on summer fabrics.

As an architect trained in evidence-based design, I'd treat the hem as the first thing the eye reads from a distance, so give it a clean line and keep the bag and jewelry simple.

Color pairings that are easy

Mid-blue denim goes with white, cream, olive and rust. Darker indigo works with almost anything, including a coral or yellow top for contrast. Pastels look fresh against light denim, though they can fade into it, so add a darker belt or bag.

Section 06

How to shop for a pair

1. Try them on in the shoes you plan to wear, then check the hem length standing and walking.
2. Sit down and bend. The waistband should not gape and the knee should not pull.
3. Check the weight of the fabric against the weather you will wear them in.
4. Wash in cold water, inside out, and not too often, to keep the color.

If you like other denim shapes, compare with mom jeans, or look at themed flares such as boho flares and velvet flares.

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Frequently asked questions

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