Wide Brim Summer Hats: How to Pick One That Stays Cool

The best wide brim summer hats combine three things: a brim of about 3 inches or more, a loose natural weave that lets heat escape, and a fit that leaves a little air between the crown and your head. A natural straw hat in a light color checks all of those boxes.

Below: how wide the brim should be, which straw to look for, what the shapes are called, and how to keep the hat in shape.

Section 01

Why a wide brim protects better

A brim shades the parts of you that a cap leaves out. Dermatologist Anna L. Chien, MD, puts it plainly in the Skin Cancer Foundation's sun protection Q&A: "A hat with a 3-inch brim protects the top of your scalp, ears and face."

Treat 3 inches as the minimum. Extra wide brim summer hats (4 inches and up) also shade the neck and shoulders, which is useful on a beach or a long walk.

Section 02

How wide should the brim be?

Brim width is partly protection and partly proportion. These ranges are a starting point, not a rule.

• Petite frames: about 3-4 inches usually keeps the hat from overwhelming you. A slightly turned-up brim adds height.
• Average height: about 3.5-5 inches gives you the most choice.
• Tall frames: 4-6 inches or more works, and a very wide brim looks balanced.

If the back of the brim hits your shoulders every time you look up, the hat is too wide for the way you move, or it needs a shorter back brim. A brim that slopes slightly downward also shades the nose better than one that sticks straight out.

Section 03

What is the best hat to keep cool in hot weather?

The best hat to keep cool in hot weather is a natural straw with an open weave, a light color and a crown that does not hug your scalp. Straw lets air move through; stiff synthetic "straw" and some paper blends hold heat against your head.

Straw types, quickly

• Toquilla (Panama) straw is fine and flexible, and feels more like fabric than grass.
• Raffia is soft and packable. It is often crocheted, which usually means more airflow.
• Seagrass is sturdy with a naturally loose weave, good for casual wear.

A simple store test: natural fibers tend to feel cool and a bit flexible. If a hat feels stiff, plasticky or warm in your hands, it will probably feel that way on your head.

Color matters in the sun

Through the lens of evidence-based design, I'd start with color and texture together. Natural or bleached straw reads light and reflects more sun, while black or navy straw looks sharp but runs warmer at noon. A darker lining under the brim can cut glare from sand or pavement.

Section 04

Does a wide brim sun hat need UPF 50?

A brim shades, but the weave still lets some light through. If you can see sunlight speckling on your face through the hat, you are getting partial exposure. A tighter weave blocks more, at the cost of some airflow.

A wide brim sun hat UPF 50 label is the shortcut. According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, a UPF of 30 to 49 offers very good protection, while UPF 50+ offers excellent protection. Its Seal of Recommendation requires a minimum UPF of 50, which blocks 98 percent of the sun's rays.

Many UPF hats get there with a thin liner or a dense weave, so check how breathable it feels before you buy.

Section 05

What are wide brimmed hats called?

There is no single name. The common ones:

• Sun hat: the general term for a floppy or structured wide brim.
• Floppy hat: a soft brim that moves with you.
• Fedora: a pinched crown with a medium brim. Flattering on many faces.
• Boater: flat top and flat, stiff brim. It sits high, so look for a loose weave.
• Cloche or bucket: a rounded crown that follows the head. Size up so air can circulate.
• Lampshade or oversized hat: a very wide, dramatic brim.

Women's and men's wide brim summer hats mostly share these shapes. The difference is usually sizing and trim, so go by head measurement rather than the label.

Section 06

How to get the fit right

A hat that is too tight traps heat and leaves a mark on your forehead. A loose one leaves in the first gust.

1. Wrap a soft tape measure about 1/8 inch above your ears and across the mid-forehead.
2. Keep it snug but not tight, and note the number in centimeters.
3. Compare it to the hat's stated size. Medium is often around 57 cm, but brands vary.

Once the hat is on, you should be able to slide two fingers flat between your forehead and the band. One-size hats with an inner drawstring can be tightened but never enlarged, so measure first.

For wind, hat tape inside the front of the band or a hat pin helps. Tie long hair low, because a high ponytail pushes the hat forward.

Section 07

How to style a wide brim hat

Match textures. A rougher raffia hat looks good with smooth linen or silk, while a fine Panama can handle textured cotton or knits. Try it with a breezy linen dress, or build a day look from these picnic outfits with straw hats.

Put your sunglasses on before you leave the mirror. If the brim hits the frames, you need a higher crown or a different pair. For more shade-focused picks, see wide brim straw hats for shade and wide-brim hats for sunny, breezy days.

Carry the look with a woven straw bag in a similar tone.

Section 08

Packing and care for straw

• Pick the hat up by the brim, not the pinch of the crown, which can crack over time.
• To pack a structured hat, stuff the crown with soft clothes and put it in the middle of the suitcase.
• Soft raffia or a labeled packable style can be folded or rolled. Do not fold others.
• If it gets wet, dry it indoors away from heat, resting upside down on the crown. A hot car can shrink natural fibers.
• To refresh a crushed hat, hold it a few inches from steam and gently reshape it, then let it dry fully.

Keep in mind that sun exposure does not only happen on bright days. Dermatologist Elizabeth K. Hale, MD, notes in the Skin Cancer Foundation's sun protection style guide that UVA rays "penetrate through windows and clouds year-round." A hat helps, but for skin concerns, check with a dermatologist.

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